Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Snake Country.

The other day in town, I passed a group of well-heeled people waiting for the bus. So unusual a sight that I looked around for the film crew. But the My Citi bus stops are popping up all over Cape Town, and the service seems to be doing well. It's a world away from the belching old Golden Arrow rattlers we took in our youth. On the West Coast road, the My Citi has a dedicated red bus lane, with a middleman of indigenous shrubs. It makes me want to try it out.

As much as I came to hate the N7 last year, so much do I love the West Coast road. It's a place where the motorists have manners - they give way if you're in a hurry. After saying thank you, I look back and see the slow, round-eyed blink of headlights in the rear view mirror - you're welcome.

I drive along this road many times a day, bluegrass in the cd player... how to grow a woman from the ground. It's perfect.


The flamingos make my heart skitter.
Further on, in the marshlands, there is a colony of pelicans. Then, down a very rutted lane, the village that we have been building for the past two months. 1840's, Texas. There is no running water and no electricity. There are snakes. Scorpions with tails fat as your thumb. We have learnt to shake things and to stomp, not walk. At dawn, we have a nature conservation man who does a slow sweep of the set, catching the unwanted and releasing them far, far away. The next day they are back.
It is hot as an oven.
The scenic painters blend right in.


Now that we have started shooting, the place has come alive. Horses and chickens, dragoons, settlers and noblemen. The Cholera-stricken, the haughty and the ornery...


It's a time of hard work, scant rest, sudden beauty.

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