Mai Mai Muti.

Under a bridge in Jeppestown,
past a long wall of paintings...

and the ghosts of old signs...

is the Mai Mai Market.

There are coffin makers and mechanics. A man with a huge pestle and mortar busy grinding up bones in clouds of dust. An ancient old lady making shobha's tails

in the sun.

Lucky powder, special doepa, tokoloshe salts, bangalala, sea water.

It's a place where you should ask permission to take photographs and where you are often politely declined.

I knew I wanted to see a woman, so I stepped into Selinati Mabaso for a consultation. 

Muti for the burglary problems at home.

And some for bad dreams.

Margaret advised while Keketso mixed and wrapped. 

These powders of different colours to be mixed with this black clay and dabbed above doorways and windows. Also on the four corners of the house. Will you remember? These herbs to be soaked in water and sprinkled at the door at night. This soil and bark mixture - take a pinch and burn it before bedtime.

You will sleep.

Kind women.